Tith Senith:  

A Tragic Story in   Cambodia

 

This is the story of a young man, one who is in search of his kin among the 'dead'. His name is Tith Senith, a tour guide in Phom Penh. He is a very efficient guide, smart enough to guide the tourists through the past and the present of his country.

   
 
 
 

I reached Phnom Penh from Siem Reap, a small Cambodian town by a domestic flight, and at the airport there was Tith Senith waiting for me. Peaceful and undisturbed, he represented all the prominent features of Khmer, the Cambodian race.

For two days, he guided me through every nook and corner of Cambodia and even helped me to film the sights of relevance.

Cambodia is a land of misfortunes, doomed by wars and internal conflicts. Pol Pot, the Communist ruler of Cambodia established his political organization, and with the help of his military troupe- Khmer Rouge, brought to death, thousands of lives.

In fact, Pol Pot was the most inhumane ruler the world ever witnessed, after Hitler and his Nazi army. Just as Hitler took the lives of millions of Jews, Pol Pot murdered about fourteen lakh Cambodians. According to the agencies that conducted studies regarding this, the death toll might even go up to forty lakhs.

It is the manifestation of death that one finds all over Cambodia. Pol Pot’s killing fields and killing chambers can be found even today in the villages and towns, and are now preserved as tourist spots.
343 killing fields were functional in Cambodia. The prisoners were either slain or beaten to death using bamboo poles and were buried together. The skeletons excavated from the killing fields are exhibited in a huge glass box, and this is a terrifying sight.

It was Tith Senith who arranged the trip to all the important sights in and around Phoom Penh, and explained to me their historical relevance. It was to the Royal Palace that we first went. I visited the famous Buddhist monastery, the Silver Pagoda, the War memorial, the Monument of Freedom and finally arrived at a notorious building.

It was a killing chamber that functioned during the Pol Pot era. It was once the most famous high school in Phnom Penh. The school was closed in 1975 and was transformed into a jail by the Khmer Rouge army. The Khmer Rouge army declared educated people to be anti- nationalists and thus, teachers, doctors, writers, politicians and scholars were imprisoned along with their family in this jail, named S-21.

The soldiers of Pol Pot found a sadistic pleasure in torturing the inmates terribly. Inhumane techniques were employed to kill the prisoners.

Thousands of prisoners who were brought to the jail were transferred to the killing fields where they were killed brutally and buried. The Khmer Rouge soldiers were particular in taking snaps of the prisoners before killing them. These pictures were kept for the sake of records. Later these photos proved to be valuable historical evidences.

The S-21 jail, which is also known as Tall Sleng has two big halls, in which these three photos are exhibited in thousands. While I was filming all these, Tith Senith seemed very disturbed. He was wandering among the exhibited photos, staring at certain ones, at times. Tith Senith had already told me that he has been working as a tour guide for almost eight years. From that day he has been bringing tourists to the jail museum.

But his disturbed look confused me. When asked the reason, he narrated a story..... a long one indeed. It was the tragic story of his life.

The story goes thus:

Tith Senith's was a happy family in Cambodia till the military coup under Pol Pot took place in 1975. Along with his parents and siblings, he lived in a remote area of Phnom Penh. Like many other families in Phnom Penh, his family too was scattered by the Khmer Rouge. His parents and elder brothers were taken away as prisoners.

Senith still remembers that they were taken to Tall Sleng. Being a small child Senith was left out by the Khmer Rouge soldiers and was brought up by some kind- hearted people. Even after the Pol Pot era came to an end, his kins never returned. They had all bid good-bye to this world. Senith, eventhough unable to recollect his relatives’ faces goes on searching for them among the pictures of the dead prisoners.
In 1980, after the Khmer Rouge rule came to an end, Senith was sent to an orphanage.
He was educated there and became proficient in English. Later he returned to Phnom Penh and became a tour guide.

“For the past eight years I have been coming here. Every time I come I search for my family among these pictures with a hope that one day I will be able to recognize them”. Senith concluded.
I still remember the sad face of the young man. He remains as a representative of the tragedy stricken generation of Combodia.

Will he able to find his relatives... among those photographs at least....?